Where the Coffee Is
The Pursuit of Japanese Coffee: Yamatoya C&C Factory

The Pursuit of Japanese Coffee: Yamatoya C&C Factory
Visiting Yamatoya’s C&C factory is an unforgettable sensory spectacle. Here, multiple roasting machines with 5 to 60 kg capacities operate side-by-side. When the 60 kg locomotive-like behemoth is fueled by some charcoal, a crackling fire dances, infusing the air with a rich aromatic complexity. Against a background of Mozart’s genuine strains, the chorus of cracking beans signals that another batch has reached its ideal roasting point.
The Vision
Yamatoya is a kissaten group established in 1980 in Takasaki, Gunma, eastern Japan. Founder and avid pottery lover Masanobu Hirayu has long aimed to create ”Japanese coffee that truly harmonizes with the country’s climate, environment, and nuanced palates of its people.” This vision drives their commitment to using nationally manufactured machines, beginning with his first purchase of two 1 kg direct-fire ones. He contentedly states, ”Fuji Royal’s are durable enough to last over 100 years with proper maintenance checks.”

Why Charcoal Roasting?
Yamatoya also opts for domestically sourced charcoal as a heat source over gas or electricity. Factory manager Yasuhiko Takahashi emphasizes its intuitive yet demanding nature.
tHeat control by charcoal is a delicate art honed through countless practices and lessons from mistakes. Any roasting operation, like finishing a batch, depends primarily on observing the color, scent, and sound of beans, a sensory judgment that precedes quantification as data.
The allure of the roasting method lies in its gently and thoroughly cooked output, imparting a depth and roundness of flavor that gas roasters may lack. On the other hand, a slight control error can lead to beans being burnt, particularly for a dark Italian roast. “Such failures are integral to the journey of becoming a skilled roaster. I encourage our team to be relaxed, remain focused on the flame, and enjoy any bumbles”, Takahashi says calmly.

The method hinges on discerning the quality of charcoal, which, like other agricultural raw materials, can vary from day to day. The company’s seasoned roasters check its condition every morning and then fine-tune each machine’s settings, including drum speed and air exhaust. Thanks to their dedication, Yamatoya consistently maintains its classic signature, even on top of contemporary consumption trends and a wide variety of beans.

The Quest Is Ongoing
Their lab houses Fuji Royal’s full-fledged miniature COFFEE DISCOVERY and is staffed by workers with roasting expertise from one to over ten years, some of whom are also J.C.Q.A.-certified instructors. Manager Tsukasa Tamura, a three-decade experienced veteran, proudly observes,
Today, younger members are more eager than ever to get advanced skills and certifications. As the coffee industry evolves and beans improve, this indispensable facility enhances our excellence.
Their pursuit under the motto, thinking about the best coffee, embodies a universal aspiration that also impels our own coffee journey.
